Second Helpings

Book Notes: With some foods, you have to make an effort before you reach the good stuff. Think of peeling artichokes or shucking oysters. It’s the same with some books. In the case of Kitchens: The Culture of Restaurant Work, a new study by sociologist Gary Alan Fine (University of…

Ribber, Phoenix

Buck-A-Rue Bar-B-Que, 15840 North Cave Creek Road, Phoenix, 971-6107. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Every one of life’s pleasures, someone once said, is illegal, immoral or fattening. I don’t get most of my pleasures by violating either the law or the Ten Commandments…

Second Helpings

This Little Piggy Went to Market: What’s the key to entrepreneurial success? Identifying a need and filling it. That’s what Circle K’s executives seem to have done. They’ve opened up Emily’s Market in demographically rich Chandler. It’s an upscale, not-quite-gourmet grocery that specializes in meals-to-go. The target audience: too-pooped-to-cook folks…

Si, We Have No Burritos!

Carlsbad Tavern, 3309 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 970-8164. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Dinner, Sunday, 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. People crave variety in all sorts of ways. Some of us wait breathlessly for car manufacturers to introduce their new models; some of…

Second Helpings

Roman Holiday: There’s no shortage of Italian restaurants in the Valley. Local folklore says there are more Italian places here than any other ethnic variety, including Mexican. But there’s not necessarily strength in numbers. Most of these restaurants are serviceable, but few are memorable. However, I’ve just come back from…

A Mother Time, a Mother Place

Desert Princess, Pleasant Harbor Marina, Lake Pleasant, 230-7600. Hours: Lunch cruise, Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday, noon to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner cruise, Friday, 7 to 9:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday, 5 to 7:30 p.m. Flower-shop owners look forward to Valentine’s Day. The airline industry can’t wait for the day before Thanksgiving…

Second Helpings

Buddy, Can You Spare $250,000? If there’s a venture capitalist out there looking to invest some big bucks in the restaurant business, I’ve got some ideas. Despite this town’s phenomenal restaurant growth, there are three niches that could use filling. First: an upscale, gringo-friendly Mexican seafood restaurant. This concept has…

Second Helpings

Menu Blues: A few weeks ago, I received a call from someone complaining about a dish he’d had at Citrus Cafe, a wonderful French restaurant out in the wilds of Chandler. What was the problem? He didn’t like his steak. This got me thinking about something I see plenty of:…

Where the Grills Are

Ventura Grill, 8380 East Via de Ventura, Scottsdale, 922-1500. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner, 5 to 10 p.m., seven days a week. No industry launches a new product these days without doing lots of homework: Bean counters analyze the hard financial data; engineers perfect…

Days of Future Pasta

Tutto, 7020 East Third Avenue, Scottsdale, 949-9101. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to midnight; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to 3 a.m. Somewhere in Phoenix, gathering dust in a warehouse, are the remains of an ancient Italian-restaurant civilization. Look:…

Second Helpings

Let Them Eat Cake? Here’s a story I heard a few weeks ago. Put yourself in both the customers’ and restaurant manager’s shoes. What would you do? Employees order a fancy, expensive dessert cake to celebrate a special occasion at their company’s headquarters. They order it from a well-known restaurant…

Ambiance Chasers

Timothy’s, 6335 North 16th Street, Phoenix, 277-7634. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner, 5 p.m. to midnight, seven days a week. What’s one difference between people and animals? Animals feed; humans dine. When my family sits down for dinner, I like to think that we’ve…

Second Helpings

How the Southwest Was Won: Tucson’s Cafe Terra Cotta has been reveling in national attention for years. But diners at the Valley branch of the restaurant could have been forgiven for wondering about the hype. Yes, the Southwestern-themed food has been first-rate since the local Cafe Terra Cotta opened a…

Second Helpings

Deli Lama: The Valley has been enjoying a spectacular restaurant boom for several years. These days, you can get almost any type of cuisine; some of it good enough to compete with the fare in America’s gastronomic capitals. But, as I’ve noted more than once, we don’t have any decent…

Seconds Over Tokyo

Ah-So, 6033 West Bell, Glendale, 978-1177. Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., seven days a week; Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m. Is Phoenix a big-league city? You can use all sorts of yardsticks to measure. Is there a symphony…

Second Helpings

Gut Reaction: According to a Gallup poll, more than half of all Americans say they suffer occasionally from some form of gastrointestinal distress. Help for these folks may be on the way. No, it’s not a pill. It’s a book with a punchy, no-nonsense title: Be Good to Your Gut:…

Mealing and Dealing

The Copper Club Restaurant, America West Arena, 201 East Jefferson, Phoenix, 379-7777. Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11a.m. to 2 p.m. Today’s quiz: Choose the statement that best describes your downtown-job situation. 1. When you arrive at work, you pull into a parking spot with a) your name on it; b)…

Razz’ll Dazzle

Razz’s Restaurant and Bar, 10321 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 905-1308. Hours: Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m. About six years ago, Erasmo “Razz” Kamnitzer came on board as chef at Different Pointe of View, the swanky dining room at the Pointe at Tapatio Cliffs. Soon after, the Hilton…

Second Helpings

Light My Fire: Remember the woman who sued McDonald’s for big bucks after spilling hot coffee on her lap? Although her award was later reduced significantly, her legal victory has restaurant owners more worried than ever about getting hit with negligence suits. A recent case in Louisiana, reported in Nation’s…

Fed and Blarney

Mulligan’s Pub and Grill, 8809 East Mountain View, Scottsdale, 314-5475. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to midnight; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Faith and begorra, lassie, yer as pretty as a milkmaid’s shamrock. May the Blarney Stone kiss…

Second Helpings

Butt Out: In a couple of weeks, citizens of Mesa get to vote on the most sweeping municipal nonsmoking measure ever proposed in this state. The ordinance would forbid smoking just about everywhere designated as a “public place.” That means workplaces, stadiums, retail stores, waiting rooms, schools, hospitals, child-care centers,…

Mexed Results

Nola’s Cocina Mexicana, Biltmore Fashion Park, 24th Street and Camelback, Phoenix, 957-8393. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9p.m. Does anyone really believe there’s such a thingas complete objectivity? I know judges…