REPAST LIFE REGRESSION

Angel’s Diner & Bakery, 1440 South Country Club, Mesa, 644-1963. Hours: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, 6 a.m. to midnight, seven days a week. I once read about a Londoner recalling his boyhood years in the early 1940s. The city was under almost daily assault from Germans rocket attacks and bomber…

SECOND HELPINGS

Retail Roundup: You can judge a city’s sophistication by its museums, symphony, theatre, libraries and professional sports franchises. But the variety of its retail food outlets is a pretty sure-fire measure of status, as well. By that standard, Phoenix is definitely headed in the right direction. Three new stores show…

PASTA MANANA

Maria’s When in Naples, 7000 East Shea, Scottsdale Promenade, Scottsdale, 991-6887. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, 5 to 10 p.m., seven days a week. Some things in life can make me happy out of all proportion to the tangible benefits they actually confer. Could…

AMERICAN REGION HAUL

Iowa Cafe, 5606 East McKellips, Mesa, 985-2022. Hours: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Friday, 6 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Breakfast and Lunch, Saturday, 6 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Think of the three most popular types of ethnic restaurants in town. They’re from countries…

SECOND HELPINGS

Food for Thought: I’ve been reading a new book, Becoming a Chef, by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, which offers recipes and reflections from some of the country’s best chefs (Van Nostrand Reinhold, $29.95). I haven’t tested any of the recipes, but I am impressed by the wisdom that inspired…

WHOSE SOY NOW?

Oriental Gourmet, 322 East Camelback, Phoenix, 285-0353. Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Six years ago, when I first came to town, I asked a friend who’d been living here since 1974 for some pointers. Where’s a good neighborhood…

AFTERNOON DELIGHT

In Luis Buuel’s Belle de Jour, Catherine Deneuve plays Severine, a young Parisian housewife. Her husband is a rich, great-looking doctor (Jean Sorel) who adores her, and toward whom she is frigid. She drifts into an afternoon job as an upscale prostitute in a swanky brothel, where she finds fulfillment,…

SECOND HELPINGS

For Whom the Bell Tolls: The trip back from northern Arizona to the Valley along I-17 may satisfy your longings for scenery, but it doesn’t offer much hope for tamping down hunger pangs. There’s the wonderful Rock Springs Cafe, at exit 242 by Black Canyon City. But by that point,…

SHORE THING

Chart House, 7255 McCormick Parkway, Scottsdale, 951-1733. Hours: Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m. Remember this old Twilight Zone episode? The Earth has slipped out of its customary orbit, and is circling ever closer to the sun. We follow a family…

SECOND HELPINGS

Biting the Big Apple: A trip back to New York always produces three effects: I’m civil to relatives I fled from 25 years ago, I hang out with old pals and relive my youth, and I spend an unconscionable amount of money eating out. I still don’t get along with…

MEXICAN STAND-OFF

La Guadalupana, 2243 North 16th Street, Phoenix, 254-5114. Hours: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, 8:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., seven days a week. Philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche thought that mankind continually struggled with two conflicting impulses. On the one hand, he said, we yearn for adventure and risk, the rush of excitement…

SECOND HELPINGS

Mexican Compromise: Sometimes people want Mexican food with a little less south-of-the-border authenticity than La Guadalupana’s, but with a lot more zip than B.F.I.T.’s (see this week’s Cafe review). In fact, that’s what I was looking for a couple of weeks ago. Some German friends and their kids were visiting,…

TWIST OF FETA

Greekfest, 1940 East Camelback, Phoenix, 265-2990. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m. For individuals, biology is destiny. Gender, intelligence, height, musculature, temperament–each of us has to…

SECOND HELPINGS

Bye-bye BYOB: Maybe the Arizona Legislature has a little too much time on its hands. Why else pass a bill, like the one that went into effect last month, forbidding customers from bringing their own wine or beer to restaurants? Our elected guardians are apparently more frightened by the prospect…

FEAST AND FAMINE

The Restaurant, the Ritz-Carlton, 2401 East Camelback, Phoenix, 468-0700. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Most of us nine-to-fivers look forward to the lunch break, but not because it’s the day’s culinary high point. Rather, it’s our only chance to get out of the office, an…

SECOND HELPINGS

Dish Jockey: When you eat out as often as I do, a dish has got to be pretty good to make you sit up and notice. Here are some that have caught my attention over the past few months: Ahoi phannee at Malee’s on Main, 7131 East Main, Scottsdale–This addition…

SECOND HELPINGS

Sea Fever: Today’s review of Il Pescatore got me thinking about ethnic seafood. If you’re looking to go beyond grilled salmon or sauted scallops for more provocatively prepared ocean fare, check out these places: * C-Fu Gourmet, 6438 South McClintock, Tempe, 831-8899. Perhaps the Queen of Valley ethnic seafood. Most…

SURF ON TURF

Oyster Grill, 455 North Third Street (Arizona Center), Phoenix, 252-6767. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m., seven days a week. Most people in the Valley have moved here from someplace else. And sometimes they have a hard time letting go of the past. Why else would they…

ONE ZINGS, THE OTHER DOESN’T

Backstage Restaurant and Bar, 7373 Scottsdale Mall, Scottsdale, 949-1697. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. What’s the difference between a restaurant run by an individual proprietor and one operated by corporate headquarters? At first glance, none,…

SECOND HELPINGS

China Chow: When I first came to Phoenix, Gourmet House of Hong Kong was the only place in town to get serious, Chinatown-quality Chinese food. Over the next few years, though, worthy competitors started to spring up, like C-Fu Gourmet in Tempe and Big Wong on West Indian School Road…

NORTHERN EXPOSURE

8700, 8700 East Pinnacle Peak Road, Scottsdale, 994-8700. Hours: Dinner, 6 to 10 p.m., seven days a week. It’s not very easy to interest Phoenicians in a July auto trip, unless the car is headed to San Diego. But I just visited a couple of distant north Valley eating spots…