SECOND HELPINGS

Class Act: Stung by a negative review, restaurant proprietors react the same way most people do when criticized: They get angry, defensive and hostile. Not Derick Macdonald, general manager at Red Lion’s swanky La Posada resort. After I bashed brunch there, Macdonald wrote me a letter responding to the review…

SECOND HELPINGS

High and Mighty: That’s the impression I get from Top of the Rock, the fine-dining restaurant at the Buttes resort, at 2000 Westcourt Way in Tempe. This place continues to deliver one of the best food/setting/view combinations in town. It has a circular room, perched on top of a butte…

SECOND SERVE

Marco Polo Supper Club, 8608 East Shea, Scottsdale, 483-1900. Hours: Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m. When it comes to watching summertime television reruns, you know just what you’re going to see: the exact same show you saw the first time…

BIG BANGER THEORY

George and Dragon, 4240 North Central, Phoenix, 241-0018. Lunch and Dinner, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m., seven days a week. If there’s any institution that indisputably proves that humans are social animals, it’s the pub. After all, if the only thing drinkers looked forward to was an alcohol buzz, they…

SECOND HELPINGS, 6-29

Well-Bread: In the old days, you’d walk into a sandwich shop at lunchtime and order a BLT on white toast or a ham and cheese on rye. Not anymore. These days, your sandwich bread is much more likely to come directly out of the oven than out of a Wonder…

SECOND HELPINGS, 6-22

Mexican Temptation: It was Oscar Wilde who said that he could resist everything except temptation. Me, too. That’s why I find myself constantly drawn to the restaurants at the beautiful Scottsdale Princess Resort. It’s impossible to eat here and not have a good time. Foodies know that the featured dining…

SCALOPPINE BOPPER

Franco’s Trattoria, 8120 North Hayden, Scottsdale, 948-6655. Hours: Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to close. There are more Italian restaurants in the Valley than any other ethnic type, at all points of the price scale. At the upper end, I don’t think any of them is better than Franco’s…

COOK’S TOUR

My wife, Paola, and I rarely get to dine out together. Since we spend the vast majority of our time in the restaurant, that’s where we dine most often. But when we do dine away from the restaurant, we don’t go to critique. Rather, we always search out a place…

SECOND HELPINGS

On the Waterfront: A recent family trip north to Lake Powell met just about my every prevacation expectation: squabbling kids, expensive lodgings, gorgeous scenery. But I was pleasantly surprised by the dining room at Wahweap Lodge, the lakefront hotel that was the jumping-off point for our excursions. As a veteran…

CHIMI SWEEP

Lily’s Cafe, 6706 North 58th Drive, Glendale, 937-7757. Hours: Lunch, Wednesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Breakfast and Lunch, Saturday, 8:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Sunday, 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, Wednesday through Saturday, 4:30 to 9 p.m.; Sunday, 4:30 to 7 p.m. When I get the…

STEAK ‘N’ IDENTITY

Texaz Grill, 6003 North 16th Street, Phoenix, 248-7827. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday, noon to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 4 to 10 p.m. What’s in a name? Plenty. Yes, it’s true that a rose by any other…

SECOND HELPINGS

Squeeze Me: Everyone knows Phoenix isn’t on the cutting edge of national trends. We get movies six months after they open in Los Angeles, and Howard Stern years after he’s worn out his welcome in other markets. Same with food. Tiramisu still qualifies as an exotic dessert here, and I…

SECOND HELPINGS, 5-25

Homage to Catalonia: What’s the best restaurant in town? Who knows? Tell me your tastes, and I could probably rattle off two dozen potential candidates. What’s my favorite restaurant? That’s a little easier. Depending on my mood, I could draw up several short lists. And Marquesa would be on all…

SOYS N THE HOOD

China Gate, 3033 West Peoria Avenue, Phoenix, 944-1982. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. When I plunk down six bucks to see a new Woody Allen…

INN SIDE EDITION

Lon’s at the Hermosa, Hermosa Inn, 5532 North Palo Cristi, Paradise Valley, 955-7878. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 6 to 10 p.m. Valley hotels and resorts know they can’t do much about marketing their rooms to locals. It doesn’t take a…

SECOND HELPINGS, 5-18

Eat, Drink and Deduct: A few weeks ago, at income-tax time, I wrote a column about restaurant owners lobbying Congress to restore 100 percent tax deductibility to business-related meals. Currently, businesses can write off only 50 percent of the cost of business meals. Naturally, restaurant owners, who figure to serve…

SECOND HELPINGS, 5-11

Triumph of the Grill: Last year, a few months after Rancho Pinot Grill opened, I gave it a rave review. The place hardly needed it. Foodies found out about it quickly enough, and the swamped restaurant soon outgrew its tiny Town & Country Shopping Center storefront. About six months ago,…

UP SHTICK CREEK

Duke’s Place, 7210 East First Avenue, Scottsdale, 970-4484. Hours: Lunch, Tuesday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, Tuesday through Sunday, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Remember the movie The Crying Game? It was basically a formula flick: Boy meets girl, boy loses girl, boy gets girl. But the…

SECOND HELPING

Brunch Tips: The Valley’s high number of world-class resorts makes this one of the country’s great brunch sites. If Etienne’s is booked for Mother’s Day, here are some first-rate alternatives that combine magnificent settings with magnificent fare: Terrace Dining Room (Phoenician resort, 941-8200): Maybe the Valley’s most lavish spread, and…

MOTHER LOAD

Etienne’s Different Pointe of View, Pointe Hilton at Tapatio Cliffs, 11111 North Seventh Street, Phoenix, 863-0912. Brunch hours: Sunday, 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. For flower shops, it’s Valentine’s Day. For airlines, it’s the day before Thanksgiving. For department stores, it’s the day after Christmas. And for restaurants, it’s Mother’s…

HEALTH’S KITCHEN

Flying Crane, 730 East Brown, Mesa, 835-6073. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 5 to 8 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 8:30 p.m. For a guy who used to believe that onion rings, jelly doughnuts, pizza and corned beef made up…

SECOND HELPINGS

Let Sleeping Dogs Lie: A friend of mine recounted this weird tale of a recent Saturday-night meal at a lively north central Southwestern-food hot spot. Between the appetizer and entree courses, a dazed dog wandered in from the street, staggered over to my friend’s group’s table and collapsed by its…